All posts by Richard Edwards

La Mortella Garden Concerts

01/06/2019 Richard Edwards

In Spring and in Autumn the chamber music recitals are held on Saturdays and Sundays in the indoor Recital Hall

In Summer, June to August, the Festival of Youth Orchestras with symphonic concerts are held every Thursday evening in the Greek Theatre. These concerts are always performed by young musicians (maximum age 32), following the express wishes of William Walton that La Mortella should help young talented musicians to spread their wings.

View the Youth Concerts programme here.

View the Chamber Music programme here.

For more information visit the official website.

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21/05/2019 Richard Edwards

Food and Wine, People, Sorrento News, Wine and Dine

Marisa Cuomo Wine – A Tale of Passion

12/05/2019 Richard Edwards

Having seen the name Marisa Cuomo on a number of wine menus we organised a private tour to the winery in Furore. It’s located 45 minutes from Positano and 500 m above the Amalfi coastal road. This wine tour was to prove stimulating not just for our taste buds but for all the senses.

After turning off the coastal road we began the winding ascent to Furore with each bend offering picture postcard scenes of the coastline far below and mountains high above. Having been used to seeing rows of vines on a rolling landscape it was hard to see where the vineyards could possibly lie in such a vertical environment.

However, following a warm welcome at the winery everything became clear as the Marisa Cuomo story unfolded during the introduction and visits to the cellars, hand-cut into the rock, and the steep, almost hidden, terraces. The main cultivation system is the ‘pergola’ with vines often planted on vertical rock faces with manual labour and donkeys still carrying the burden. Some of the wines are classed as Extreme and Heroic because of the challenging conditions.

Bruna was our guide and her description sounded more like a novel than a tour. A story of romance, dramatic landscapes, physical struggles and passion to produce beautiful wines. In 1983 the vineyard was a wedding gift from Andrea Ferraioli to Marisa and like true love, flourished over the years. Their determination, together with generations of experience and physical toil has resulted in a cellar with a world wide reputation.

In addition to vineyards in Furore, they have others located along the Amalfi coast. Ancient vines producing unique tastes influenced by the earth in which they grow and the mountain air they absorb. Tronto, Tintore, Sciascinoso, Ripolo, Pepella, Ginestra, Piedirosso, and Fenile are the grape varieties blended to create nine Marisa Cuomo wines listed below.

Furore Bianco, Furore Rosso.
Ravello Bianco, Ravello Rosso.
Furore Bianco Fiorduva, Furore Rosso Riserva.
Costa d’Amalfi Rosso, Costa d’Amalfi Rosato, Costa d’Amalfi Bianco.

Marisa Cuomo wines are available in the UK and stockists found with Google search

Tastings took place at the Ristorante Bacco, located opposite the winery with a table for two on a terrace open to spectacular views of the mountains and coastline. There was a choice of menus each with a selection of three wines to complement the dishes and ours included the award-winning Furore Bianco Fiorduva.

How the different landscapes and soils influenced the intricacies of each wine were explained to us as the dishes were served; citrus from lemon groves, minerals in more rocky ground and much more. It was an exceptional meal with superb wines in a truly wonderful setting followed by a relaxing drive back to Sorrento.

Whenever we open wine from Marisa Cuomo it is not only the flavours that rekindle memories of our visit but also the label. Each wine has its own illustration as if taken from a storybook, but a story based on real people and real places. Whether you are a wine connoisseur or a romantic you should find this tale of passion and fortitude in a beautiful but unforgiving landscape fascinating.

Based on our experience Friends of Sorrento provides a private tour to Marisa Cuomo including time to visit Positano. See itinerary

Full details about the Marisa Cuomo winery and their wines can be found at their website together with a selection of videos. Here’s a little taster.

Marisa Cuomo
Via G.B. Lama, 16/18
Furore
Website

Features, People, Sorrento News

Naples Underground: The Art Metro

28/04/2019 Richard Edwards

Few people know that beneath the busy streets of Naples lies an extraordinary subterranean art collection, open to any curious traveller for the price of a metro ticket.

Toledo station, designed by Catalan architect Oscar Tusquets Blanca and curated by Italian art critic Achille Bonito Oliva, has been described as “the most beautiful subway stop in Europe”. Wrapped around the entrance hall is an ornate mosaic designed by South African artist William Kentridge, depicting the Naples Procession led by San Gennaro. Figures from Italian history and blood-red musical scores are woven with maps of the city’s first underground rail system: all tiled by hand in the style of the Cosmati masters.

Materials and colours in Toledo station move down through black asphalt to ochre and finally azure, representing the earth’s strata. Descending the escalator, you can gaze up through the cavernous Cratere di Luce (Crater of Light) to the sunshine above. Moving walkways between platforms double as immersive installations. Ponder giant portraits from cultures around the world in The Human Race by Oliviero Toscani; walk on water through By The Sea…You And Me, shimmering oceanic panels by Texan artist Robert Wilson.

At the kaleidoscopic Università station, Egyptian architect Karim Rashid has created a thoroughly psychedelic commute. In this steel hall of mirrors, pink and purple walls glisten like pulled sugar. 3D shapes animate as you walk by, exploring the language of our new digital era. Beyond the turnstiles you’ll meet Rashid’s Conversational Profile, polished black pillar-sculptures in the futurist style of Bertelli’s famous Continuous Profile of Mussolini. And at the exit stairways, each step shows a slice of a screenprint homage to Dante and his beloved muse Beatrice.

If you’re visiting the Museo Archeologico Nazionale on your trip, go via the Museo station to see Mimmo Jodice’s mesmerizing, torchlit photos of ancient bronze statues. A perfect opener for the Farnese Hercules that greets you, fresh from killing his lion, in the museum’s atrium.

A highlight of the Quattro Giornate station on Line 1 is Marisa Albanese’s celestial Combattenti (Fighters). Sitting weightless above the escalators, the sculptures are dedicated to the women of the Italian Resistance—their unsung strength during the WWII uprising of Naples in September 1943.

There are currently 14 ‘art stations’ distributed along lines 1 and 6 of the Metro network, featuring more than 180 works by 90 international artists and architects.

Two new stations, dedicated to the city’s archaeological treasures, are currently in planning. Duomo station will be built around the excavations of a 1st-century temple and athletic race track; Municipio will showcase, among other precious artefacts, the preserved skeletons of three Roman ships.

Samantha Edwards
Most Played | Copywriting + Creative
www

For more information and images of the art stations view this excellent video.

List of art stations:
Line 1: Garibaldi, Università, Toledo, Dante, Museo, Materdei, Salvator Rosa, Quattro Giornate, Vanvitelli, Rione Alto
Line 6: Mostra, Augusto, Lala, Mergellina

The metro is open 6:00 to 23:00 every day of the year.
A travelcard, valid for one day, costs 3.50 Euro.

People, Sorrento News

D’Anton Design & Bistro

15/04/2019 Richard Edwards

D‘Anton, the designer bistro, sits comfortably on the corner of Piazza S.Antonino in Sorrento, opposite the Tasso Theatre. From the outside, the tables and chairs present a typical image of a small cafe/bistro serving visitors cappuccino and traditional snacks with a classic view across a pleasant piazza.

However, inside is a collection of Objets d’art filling the room from top to bottom creating a unique ambience. Chandeliers, table lamps, bird cages, statues, paintings, mirrors, ceramics, glass, plant holders, cushions and more compete for attention as a source of inspiration for interior design projects. Try to imagine an Alladin’s cave that has a cocktail bar and food with many of its treasures available for purchase.

Dishes of traditional offerings and original cocktails are presented in an equally imaginative way to compliment the surroundings. In the evenings the atmospheric lighting is perfect for romantic interludes.

If you are looking for a source of inspiration for interior design, an intimate table with a film-set decor, traditional snacks using local produce, cocktails with attitude (try the limoncello cocktail made from Francesca’s secret recipe), or just the perfect cappuccino then D’Anton is the place. Gabriel, pictured below, and Francesca will be pleased to welcome you.

D’Anton Design & Bistro
Piazza Sant’Antonino
Sorrento
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29&30 at the Teatro Tasso

07/04/2019 Richard Edwards

(April 25)

The band 29&30 (ventinove e trenta) will be playing at the Teatro Tasso in the Piazza Sant’Antonino on Thursday 25 April.
Starts at 19.00 and entrance is free.

Twenty-nine and Thirties started in 2015 in Naples with their songs written in the Neapolitan language. They capture the challenges and joy of life with a cheerful sound, combining the liveliness of reggae with the influences of other genres such as funk, dance and swing.

Since then the band has played in various festivals and presented rearrangements of classic Neapolitan songs. In 2018 the group began collaborating with Massimiliano and Valerio Jovine and Alessandro Aspide (Jovine Studio 3) for the artistic production of his first EP. Its release is scheduled for May 2019 and will include the participation of important artists of the Neapolitan music scene Neapolitan such as Ciccio Merolla, Brunella Selo, Fabiana Martone and Simona Boo. To date, the 29&30 has had over 50 live shows during which they shared the stage with the likes of Lelio Morra, Piotta, Tony Tammaro, Gigi Finizio, Pepp Oh, Jovine, Ultimo, ‘O Zulù, Valentina Stella , Oyoshe.

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPj2QfoUNaI&width=560&height=315&autoplay=0&loop=1&rel=0[/embedyt]

Band Members
Carlo de Rosa – Vocal
Pasquale Di Marino – Drums
Dario Di Pietro – Guitar
Francesco Verrone – Bass
Antonio Di Mauro – Keyboard
Alessandro Zinno – Saxaphone

People, Sorrento News, Wine and Dine

Sunset dinner in the Marina Grande

31/03/2019 Richard Edwards

Let me invite you for a sunset dinner in the picturesque harbour of the Marina Grande. Make your way to the Piazza della Vittoria, at the rear of the Tramomtano Hotel, and with the Bellevue Syrene on your right follow the cobbled lane. This will guide you through hidden villas and secret gardens, down well trodden steps and under an archway which opens to a magnificent vista of the harbour.

In the next hour or so tables will start to fill every available space in and around each restaurant along the water’s edge. Dishes of grilled sardines, plump prawns, fish of the day, crab, lobster ….. will be whisked across the road from kitchen to outside tables. On this occasion we’ll have to ignore the temptation of the long established Trattoria da Emilia and the more recent Soul & Fish restaurant, at least until lunch tomorrow.

Because this evening we are dining at Delfino’s, right on the other side of the harbour, past the children paddling on the beach, the illuminated church and the lady making traditional lace products. From here you can enjoy uninterrupted views of the sunset with the relaxing sound of waves splashing under the boardwalk. The atmosphere is a little quieter with enough table space to allow some privacy for those ‘special’ occasions.

On one side is the fishing harbour and on the other, the bay of Naples with Vesuvius skirted by the lights of Naples just out of the picture on the right. The scene is set, so lets order aperitifs to toast the sunset while we wait for the highlight of the evening, the meal. I’m going for one of Delfino’s specials, Risotto with mussels, clams, squid, octopus and scampi, or perhaps Pasta with clams, zuccine and peeled shrimps, but those Dumplings with smoked cheese and peeled shrimps look tempting ……..

Its popularity with the locals and visitors throughout the year says enough about the food and service which are under the constant supervision of the family owners Andrea, Luisa and Roberto (the quiet one). Nothing more to add except it is advisable to book in advance for an outside table. Buon appetito!

Restaurant Bagni Delfino
Marina Grande, Sorrento
tel: 081 878 2038

Sorrento News

Wine of the month

31/03/2019 Richard Edwards

Friends of Sorrento brings you reviews on wines from Southern Italy courtesy of Richard Ballantyne, Master of Wine. This month’s recommendation is:
Sergio Arcuri 2014 Cirò Classico Superiore ‘Aris’.

Calabria is a little off the beaten track so you could be forgiven for having never heard of the wines from this region. We have discovered one outstanding producer whose wines are incredibly stylish and authentic.

Sergio Arcuri is a fourth generation wine producer in the DOC of Cirò where the grape variety of Gaglioppo is king. Sergio has a very small estate of 4 hectares which includes a parcel of vines planted in 1948, and another planted in 1980.

It’s these old vines that give his wine such depth and complexity. There is no oak in this wine whatsoever – it is fermented in cement tanks, then aged for 18 months in another cement tank underground to keep it cool from the blasting heat of the South of Italy.

The wine bears remarkable similarity to top end Barolo for its fragrant notes of dried rose petals, dark berries, dried figs and prunes. The wine is remarkably fresh and lively with great acidity and framed with powerful, but ripe tannins.

The wine is made partly from the vineyard planted in 1948 with the remainder from vines planted in 1980, always from bush vines (Alberello) and it certified organic. Sergio eschews the use of sulphur dioxide in his winemaking, and this wine spends 18 month ageing in an underground cement tank.

Richard Ballantyne MW

This is a truly exciting discovery and we are delighted to introduce you to it. The wine is included in Richard’s 20% Off Italian Wines Offer until end of April. See details

Arts and Crafts, Fashion, People, Shops, Sorrento News

Art jewellery by Daniela Pollio

27/03/2019 Richard Edwards

From Daniela Pollio’s studio flows a wealth of creative art jewellery and miniature sculptures. Creations that could easily have fallen out of story book illustrations and dreams, or uncovered from mystical places and long forgotten civilisations. This video by Daniela displays some of her sculptures and you can see wonderful photos of these and art jewellery on her social media pages, links provided below.

Rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, brooches, keyrings and miniatures all seem to have an affiliation with ‘earth’ and ‘people’. Inspiration comes from nature, books and everyday life, including the digital age. Each item lovingly put together and crying out to tell you about itself. Visit the studio, select the piece that captures your imagination and let its story unfold when admirers enquire. Its all part of the experience.

Grimilde & Mufasa
“Grimilde is the Whitesnow’s stepmother, Mufasa is the Simba’s dad. The collection is dedicated to the pleasure of reading. A king and his Queen live in a cottage not a castle, with a lot of flowers with human faces. The crowns are on simple chairs not thrones. All the things go out of the books and materialise.”
Daniela Pollio

You can view Daniela’s collections of art jewellery and miniatures on her Instagram and Facebook pages.
For contact information visit her Website

Shops, Sorrento News

Pets for life and posterity

24/03/2019 Richard Edwards

This mosaic from Pompeii is on display at the Naples National Archaeological Museum*. Another can be seen in Pompeii itself at the entrance to the House of the Tragic Poet with an inscription, Cave Canem (Beware of the Dog) as a warning to strangers and guests.

Remains of a dog have also been excavated from the ruins complete with an inscribed collar demonstrating the devotion between dog and its young master. The dog’s name was Delta and the inscription related how he heroically saved his owner from a wolf attack.
* Image from Wikimedia

The centuries have not diminished such an affinity with dogs, and while digital cameras record countless memories there is something special about a more permanent and tangible reminder of companionship.

Just 25 km from Pompeii in the heart of Sorrento, dog lovers can discover their own pet’s lookalike from a range of popular breeds produced in ceramic and delivered to their door. There is even a customised service to reproduce the colours and distinctive features from photographs of a beloved pet.

Remind yourself of those fond memories of companionship with a pat on the head of your pet’s sculpture each time you pass. It’s not just dogs on show, but a menagerie of cats, rabbits and other animals from the smallest mouse to the grandest lion.

If you would like more information about these ceramic pets please complete the form below.

Fashion, People, Sorrento News

Ballerì – Shoes with a zest for life

12/03/2019 Richard Edwards

Ballerì offers a range of ballet flats hand crafted in Naples with the finest materials. Creative designs by the owner, Gaia de Lizza, encapsulate the colours, traditions and styles reminiscent of the Neapolitan Riviera to match the mood and occasion of the day, be it playful, chic or just chilling out.

The quality of materials and workmanship together with innovative designs lift these flat shoes to a higher level. The Ballerì collections offer a choice suitable for all holiday activities and occasions, from beach party to restaurants or classical concerts.

Lemon Soul Collection
This is Ballerì’s signature collection with embroidered lemon icons presented on satin and printed cottons in various styles. The range includes sling back, cross and ankle band. Perfect for the holiday spirit and as a reminder of good times on your return.

Eleonora Collection
Ideal for smart casual occasions such as concerts, cocktails, dinners and of course la passeggiata (traditional Italian evening stroll) to see and be seen. Available in suede or leather in different colours.

Carla Collection
Less formal and possibly more casual smart, this round toe style is also available in suede or leather in a choice of colours. Cocktails on the terrace anyone?

Ballerì Boutiques
The Sorrento boutique is just off the main square, Piazza Tasso, but if you can’t wait until your vacation then visit Ballerì’s Online store. This shows the full range of styles and colours to help get you in the holiday mood.

Sorrento: Corso Italia 187
Naples: Via Carlo Poerio 97

Balleri Boutique Sorrento

Fashion, People, Recent Videos, Shops, Sorrento News, TV Featured Videos, Videos

Autori Capresi Exclusive Linen

08/03/2019 Richard Edwards

Cool linen and a warm welcome

We first discovered Autori Capresi in June 2012 during a passiagata through the narrow streets of historic Sorrento. The shop entrance exuded coolness and drew you in from the sultry street air to appreciate a wonderful selection of exquisite and unique hand crafted clothing using the purest and lightest linen. The owner, Antonio Truppa, and his family are passionate about their linen and the production of high quality customised clothes and accessories.

Carefully selected hats, belts, scarves and sandals complement the linen colours and styles to keep you looking and feeling cool. There are outfits for all ages suitable for ‘lay back casual’ to ‘smart casual’ occasions. Perfect for your Neapolitan Riviera vacation and irresistible presents for the grand children!

Not surprisingly such originality and quality have attracted a worldwide following with visitors becoming members of an exclusive client base. Demand from the Sorrento and Capri outlets together with customised orders from existing clientele means there is no online store. All the more reason to add Autori Caprese to your ‘must see’ list during a visit Sorrento or Capri.

Editor’s Note
Autori Capresi launched their new website and online store in January 2023.
Here it is!

Further examples from the Autori Capresi collections can be seen on their promotional video below, instagram and facebook.

Outlets

Sorrento: Via P. R. Giuliani 21
Capri: Via Fuorlovado 5

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Ravello Concerts

01/01/2019 Richard Edwards

(May to October)

Visitors have a choice of concerts featuring works from classical selections to enjoyable jazz performances.

The concert start time from 15 Sept to 9 Oct will be 6.30 pm to take advantage of the public bus service at the concert end, which is reduced in Winter and Spring.

The concerts from 12 May to 11 Sept will be performed at 8.30 pm for concert goers to have time to appreciate thoroughly Ravello and to enjoy music in the cool of the evening

2021 Programme

Arts and Crafts, People, Shops, Sorrento News

The Art of Wood Inlay in Sorrento

13/11/2018 Richard Edwards

Visitors to Sorrento will not fail to see examples of the traditional art of wood inlay (intarsia) in all kinds of products, from small souvenir items to intricate pieces of furniture. Examples on a grander scale can be seen on the main entrance and side doors of the Cathedral. These include work done in the 1990’s by local artisans, Guiseppe Rocco and Vincenzo Stinga.

This traditional craftsmanship has passed the test of time and produces stunningly beautiful works of art for modern as well as traditional home interiors. Beyond the souvenir items you will find furniture and decorative accessories that will inspire anyone with a flair for interior design looking for a ‘statement’ piece.

The Gargiulo & Jannuzzi Store on Sorrento’s main square, Piazza Tasso, offers superb examples of inlaid products to satisfy the creative imagination of any interior designer. These include exquisite decorative boxes and larger statement pieces, all blending traditional workmanship with contemporary tastes.

The Jannuzzi Store has a huge selection of products on display and offers customised design and delivery services. An introduction to the techniques used by the craftsmen is also provided. You get an idea of the range available from their website.

There are a number of other workshops to be discovered in Sorrento where local artisans manufacture a wide selection of traditional and contemporary designs, see below.

To see the development and application of wood inlay since the 19th century, visit the Wood Inlay Museum and Craft Shop (Museo Bottega della Tarsia Lignea) in the beautifully restored Palazzo Pomarici Santomasi on Via S. Nicola, which is a 10 minute walk from the centre. Exhibits include furniture and objects with incredibly intricate wood inlay by past masters of the craft together with pieces from contemporary designers.

View this video to see a small selection of wood inlay items together with other historical artefacts on display at the Museum. More information can be found on the museum’s official website.

Other workshops
Stinga Tarsia. View their excellent video showing the making of a classic inlaid box. www
Augusto & Luca. www
Calemma. www
Gargiulo Inlaid. www
Biagio Barile. www

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Classic Cars Tour of Sorrento and Amalfi

02/11/2018 Richard Edwards

(1 to 4 Nov)

Magnificent machines from the Napoli Classic Car Club touring the beautiful Amalfi Coast and beyond. An opportunity to see a unique collection of classic cars as they tour the Sorrento Peninsula with visits to Sorrento, Positano and Capri. They will be based at the Exclesior Vittoria Hotel in the centre of Sorrento so there should be opportunities to see them arrive and depart on a number of occasions.

For details view the official programme.

Sorrento News, Wine and Dine

Cocktails at Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria

07/08/2018 Richard Edwards

Signature cocktail menu at the Excelsior Vittoria in Sorrento — Selection from the 20 Signature Cocktails

The menu at Bar Vittoria takes a leisurely trip around the world, from Portugal to Germany to Cuba and Japan and eventually back to Italy, with each country inspiring a cocktail. The Madame Bovary from France, the Bollywood from India, the Tartan from Scotland and so forth. The clifftop terrace has stood since 1834 – when the hotel became a favourite stop on the Grand Tour route – and since then the bar has served whiskies to Jack Lemmon, champagne to Marilyn, and pretty much anything a monarch, opera singer or film star might fancy.

On our visit we tried the Flauto di Pan, a take on the Peruvian classic Pisco Sour, delicately flavoured with pineapple and pomegranate. A refreshing aperitif with enough complexity to keep you interested. Then from Italy the Stradivari, a kind of Aperol Spritz/Negroni cross, adding limoncello and moscato wine. And from the US, maybe our favourite, the Marilyn: a boozy after-dinner sipping drink made with bourbon, Ancho Reyes (a chili liqueur which gives a little kick) and Amaro 18 – Italian bitters made with aromatic herbs. There’s also a little waiter theatre to enjoy…our Stradivari was poured and topped with prosecco in front of us from a silver trolley, and the ladies at the neighbouring table enjoyed a live martini-mixing.

The signature cocktails were created by head barman Gerardo Oliva, whose CV includes the Capri Palace in Anacapri, and the Castello del Nero Hotel & Spa in Tuscany. And there are lots of little menu details that nod to history or culture or local mythology. The Liquore delle Sirene pops up in a few drinks, an Italian liqueur of 23 botanicals including Mediterranean fruit and flowers, Asian sweet spices and bitter roots from the Americas. It’s used in their Parthenope cocktail, named after a Siren in Greek mythology. (The Sirenusas are an archipelago of islands between Capri and Positano – the name a reference to the sirens said to have lived there and lured sailors to their doom.)

The prices here aren’t for the faint-hearted: the cocktails are 18 euros each. But, remind yourself, this is a once-in-a-lifetime drinks experience. And to soften the blow, they don’t skimp on the nibbles. At the very least you can expect a generous trio of crisps, toasted almonds and big sweet green olives (according to a quick internet search, Castelvetrano olives from Siciliy). We were also brought a plate of tasty amuse-bouches – cream cheese and chorizo in shortcrust-pastry boxes, miniature pizzas, and bitesized basil and mozzarella sandwiches.

Cocktails and canapes at the Hotel Excelsior Vittoria in Sorrento — Champagne cocktail, the Stradivari and snacks aplenty

It goes without saying that you can order off-menu – the barman will make any classic cocktail on request. We had a great gin martini the night after too. For me, the only things missing from the menu were a few good craft beers. Granted it might not be their priority (and maybe Campania hasn’t been hit by the craft-beer craze like the UK) but it couldn’t hurt to add to the omnipresent bottle-of-Peroni.

The bar hosts live music every Friday night, including international jazz artists. On our visit, a quieter Wednesday, there was a pianist on the terrace playing the traditional Italian songbook – Torna a Surriento etc. I personally find this kind of music a little sentimental, and preferred the modern tracks they had in the background later into the night. (Hearing a contemporary sound in a historical setting can be strangely magical.) That said, some might consider a traditional soundtrack part of the Excelsior experience.

And then of course there’s the view. Honestly it’s a fight to not spend the whole time reaching for your phone – and I did find myself wishing that people were a little less phone centric – because the sunset is breathtaking. If you’re visiting Sorrento but not staying at the Excelsior, you’d do very well to head down to Bar Vittoria (check beforehand what time the sun sets) and see for yourself why it’s such a firm favourite.

by Sam Edwards
www

Sorrento News

Excelsior Vittoria – 6 years on

28/07/2018 Richard Edwards

We first visited Sorrento in 2000 and stayed at the Excelsior Vittoria on several occasions, but it has been 6 years since our last visit. 10 years ago we also wrote an article on the hotel, and now seemed an appropriate reason to update the original feature. So we booked three nights in July and here are our thoughts.

This bronze sculpture, by Giuseppe Tirelli, is one of many works of art throughout the hotel, and captured the immediate feeling of relaxation and being pampered on arrival. There are certainly more staff with many familiar faces now passing on their considerable experience and advice to the next generation. Here are Giovanni, Raffaele and Giuseppe.

The character and atmosphere of public rooms remain as captivating as ever and the stroll from the main gate entrance all the way down to the 20’s lobby and through to the terrace is iconic. The terrace has not changed, it does not have to, it simply provides a perfect spot to view the Bay of Naples and all that surrounds it. The lift down to the port has been modernised and the area immediately below the terrace now hosts a small clean beach and restaurant.

The hotel now hosts a full programme of events throughout the year, including music, charity dinners and art exhibitions. Regular jazz performances take place on the terrace accompanied by glorious sunsets, delicious canapés and aperitifs, including Excelsior’s 20 signature cocktails which are worthy of their own review.

As expected from a five star hotel, the rooms are continually being refurbished to meet the comfort and technological requirements of today’s guests. A number of things caught our eye such as the luxurious, cool cotton sheets, the simple flexible overhead reading light, flip flops, complimentary bedside bottles of water every night and trouble-free wifi. This attention to detail is noticeable throughout the hotel and its gardens. There are double hammocks for relaxed reading under the shade of orange and lemon trees, quiet intimate corners amongst pergolas and discreet safe play areas for children.

And the food?

Let’s start with the first meal of the day. A breakfast banquet in the elegant Vittoria Breakfast Room. A selection to satisfy and tempt all tastes with a chef preparing eggs and pancakes to your taste and another blending fruits and vegetables of your choice. Traditional Neapolitan breads, carrot pie, rice cake, plum cake, sfogliatella napoletana and much, much more would require a stay of two weeks to sample them all. The table service was exceptional.

Moving onto a light lunch, especially after that breakfast, the L’Orangerie Restaurant offers an excellent selection, we ordered stuffed zucchini flowers and a perfect caprese salad. Its proximity to the pool means you can book a table from your sun lounger and – if you’re eager to get back to that novel – take your champagne away with you when you’ve finished. In the evening it transforms into a very chic but informal setting and is often used for gala and charity dinners.

The Michelin Star Terrazza Bosquet Restaurant presented a culinary experience appropriate for a special occasion with the company of Vesuvius and sparkling Naples to share a very memorable evening. The pigeon breast was delicious and the Fiorduva white from Marisa Cuomo Winery perfect with the risotto.
We visited the Marisa Cuomo Winery during this visit and will be writing a post shortly.

I believe one of the secrets of the Excelsior’s success is that the owners – three generations of the Fiorentino family – are based there most of the season and involved in its day to day activities. This family approach seems to permeate the whole fabric of the hotel and the staff’s attitude to their guests.

The changes made since our visit six years ago are subtle and reflect a continual ‘fine tuning’ of services and amenities that compliment rather than compete with the hotel’s unique location and history. 2019 sees the hotel’s 185th anniversary and perhaps this is the truest seal of approval.

Richard Edwards MA

Exclusive promotions for Friends of Sorrento members
We organise a number of exclusive fully escorted tours throughout the year for small groups of 8 or 16 with rooms at the Excelsior. If you would like further information please contact us.

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Music in Sant’Agata

12/06/2018 Richard Edwards

(July 7 & 8)

The Intricanti Music Festival 2018 brings two concerts to the Residenza Cerulli in Sant’Agata sui due Golfi, Massa Lubrense. We have provided a rough translation of the two groups of performers but think the videos will speak louder than words. They are well worth viewing.

Start at 9.30 pm. Free admission subject to availability.

Musica Da Ripostiglio

Saturday 7 July

Luca Pirozzi – voice, guitar, banjo
Luca Giacomelli – guitar, choirs
Raffaele Toninelli – double bass, choirs
Emanuele Pellegrini – drums, percussions, choirs

The aspiration of the group, nominated for Grammy Awards 2018, would have been to arrange the songs of singer-songwriter Luca Pirozzi in a chamber music, but given the times they run, they preferred to change the trend and their music has become from “Ripostiglio”.
A musical reality born from the twenty-year artistic association of Luca Pirozzi and guitarist Luca Giacomelli, to which were later added by Raffaele Toninelli on double bass and Emanuele Pellegrini on drums. There are four of them and show, making the audience entertain with a repertoire halfway between the light-hearted and the busy, between the unpublished and the cited, a unique act able to involve viewers of all ages in an original and exciting.

Virtuosi Di S.Martino in Rumors

Sunday 8 July

Roberto Del Gaudio Dramaturgy
Music development Federico Odling

with Roberto Del Gaudio – voice
Federico Odling – cello
Vittorio Ricciardi – flute
Francesco Solombrino – violin
Carmine Terracciano – guitar

With Rumors, the chamber ensemble founded in Napol inel 1994 presents a playful and irreverent journey in the world of 60-70s song.
Decades of great revolutionary drive, of great promises of change, of great utopian prophecies, accompanied by a variegated and almost obsessive soundtrack made of songs, rock, disco, “commitment”. And just around the most famous songs of those years the Virtuosi develop a surgical treatment in style Dr. Frankenstein, grafting musical and text shreds on scores of others: Rino Gaetano meets Erik Satie, John Lennon who marries Squallor, Bob Dylan summoned to Zecchino d’Or, not to mention Pink Floyd in 007 sauce and the hymn to Abba’s militant feminism. To present this concert-show is a new character of invention, the manager of Virtuosi, in a daring series of stories and curiosities related to those mythical years, groups, stories. A paradoxical reinterpretation proposed by flute, piccolo, violin, viola, cello, classical guitar, with voices and sensations addressed to the parody of some icons of contemporary music, from Patty Pravo to the Beatles.

Features, People, Sorrento News

A boat trip to Maria Grazia’s

11/06/2018 Richard Edwards

Here’s a nautical idea for your vacation.

Take a boat for lunch at Maria Grazia’s restaurant on the beach of Marina del Cantone. Not just lunch but their infamous dish of spaghetti and zucchini.

On the way you will cruise along the coastline of Massa Lubrense and sail around Punta Campanella at the extreme tip of the Sorrento Peninsula. After taking in the scenery and keeping cool by swimming in the crystal clear waters you step ashore at Marina del Cantone to the welcoming entrance of Maria Grazia. There’s no rush, take your time to savour the dish, the wine and the surroundings before sailing off to Positano.
Suggest you book a table in advance

Relax, take in the sun as you follow the shoreline round to the magical setting of Positano waiting like an old friend with outstretched arms to welcome you in. Once ashore soak up the atmosphere, browse the boutiques, sip wine at beach cafes and be amazed by the multicoloured buildings perched above you.

It will be difficult to leave but on the return journey you will be rewarded by the natural beauty of this unique location as you sail close to Li Galli, home of the legendary Siren, and the cathedral like Faraglioni rocks next to Capri. Back on dry land you can start planning your next voyage to the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida.

“But I’ve never sailed a boat”, I hear some of you say. The solution is simple, take a stroll to Sorrento’s harbour where you will find the small unassuming office of Nautica Sic Sic. Small but overflowing with 30 years experience of sailing the waters of the Bay of Naples and the Amalfi coast.

A warm welcome awaits from Capt. Maurizio and his crew who will be pleased to offer advice and proposals for sailing to your dream location. Here’s their website.

Next stop is Paul & Shark on Corso Italia for that yachting polo shirt.

Friends of Sorrento offers advice and assistance in arranging private boat trips as well as a choice of boat tours for small groups (12 max) along the Amalfi coast and around the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida. These provide opportunities to go ashore and for swimming and snorkelling. Full details here.

Features, People, Sorrento News

Pozzuoli – Its rise and fall

09/06/2018 Richard Edwards

We asked one of our members, Paul Barber, to write an account of his visit to Sofia Loren’s home town, Pozzuoli. Other attractions include the Flavian Amphitheater, which is the third largest Roman amphitheater in Italy, and a Piazza that rises and falls with the volcanic activity.

Pozzuoli is very well-known with Italians and is a very important place for its ancient sights and because of the nearby Solfatara volcano, which is very active. Once the traveller arrives in Pozzuoli, they can visit the ‘Flavian Amphitheatre’, go down to the waterfront for lunch and return up the hill out of town to the Solfatara volcano.

View over Naples towards Pozzuoli from Vesuvius

When visiting Mount Vesuvius our guide told us about the volcano monitoring station situated there and explained that it is linked to another at Solfatara, where ground movement is constantly monitored in case of eruption of the super-volcano there. Pozzuoli is situated in the middle of the Phlegrean Fields of small volcanos and is subject to a phenomena known as Bradyism, in which the whole town slowly rises, sinks and rises again caused by the underlying volcanic activity. The town has risen more than 11 feet in the past 30 years!

Amphitheatre above and below

The ‘Flavian Amphitheatre’ is very interesting; built between AD 69-79, the third largest amphitheatre in Italy (with a seating capacity of 20,000 people), it was the site of the martyrdom of Naples’ beloved San Gennaro – who’s remains are to be found in the Duomo of Naples. The exterior of the building is crumbling a bit, but unlike Rome’s Colosseum, the flooring of the Flavian Amphitheatre survives intact. Visitors can wander through the tunnels and chambers beneath, where gladiators and wild beasts once awaited their fate.

Moving down towards the waterfront, in a palm-shaded, sunken park at the centre of town lies the romantically half-flooded ‘Temple of Serapide’. This was once the marketplace of the Roman city and is marked by three standing columns and a ring of column stubs surrounding a raised circular dais. The site is not open to the public, but can be seen clearly from the surrounding fence.

Temple of Serapide with restaurants in the background

Next to the ‘Temple of Serapide’ is the ‘Trattoria il Tempio’, where the umbrella shaded tables are set on cobblestones directly overlooking the ancient site. Pozzuoli’s seafood was a wonderful experience and this restaurant serves an excellent array of dishes.

A 20-minute walk above Pozzuoli is the elliptical caldera of the ‘Solfatara Volcano’. Although it hasn’t actually erupted since AD 1198, the parched, alien landscape of bubbling mud pits and fumaroles furiously venting sulphurous steam remind intrepid visitors that molten lava still runs just under the ground surface here. Monitoring of ground movement and sampling of gases keep an eye on what’s going on under the surface, together with monitoring on Vesuvius scientists keep an eye out for any sign of increased volcanic activity. This has been a visitor attraction since early Roman times and in its modern incarnation as a tourism site has been going strong since 1900. Guided tours are available to take visitors round the site, which is well worth a visit for those who want to see volcanic activity close-to.

Solfatara fumarole

Other interesting sites nearby that could be visited on a guided tour include the ‘Cave of the Cumean Sybil’ and ‘Lago di Averno’ (the gateway to the underworld where Aeneas descended to confront Hades) and trip on a glass-bottomed boat to see the old part of Baia town several metres below sea level (Baia’s underwater archeological park).

Paul Barber. June 2017

Editor’s notes
Pozzuoli is still relatively quiet in comparison to the region’s other attractions and offers visitors a unique opportunity to explore Roman ruins, above and below water, and a volcanic landscape, once thought of as the ‘gateway to hell’. Located 20 km west of Naples it takes around 40 minutes by road and 90 minutes by train. Visitor access to these sites and the transport infrastructure continue to be improved and private small group tours are currently available with Friends of Sorrento.

You can find more information about Pozzuoli on Wikipedia

The copy and photographs of this page are subject to copyright.

Archive

Massa Lubrense Summer Events

08/06/2018 Richard Edwards

(June to Sept)

Massa Lubrense, also known as the legendary Land of Sirens, is only a 20 minute bus ride from Sorrento so a day out to this beautiful area is easy and well worth the trip.

Massa Lubrense is an area with 18 beautiful villages each offering different and unique landscapes. Sant’Agata sui due Golfi, set on the hill overlooking the bays of Naples and Salerno, the Bay of Jeranto and the Punta Campanella, directly opposite the island of Capri, are typical examples. The countryside is criss-crossed with sign posted paths through ancient hamlets, lemon orchards, olive groves, oak woods and sunny coasts. The perfect picnic scenario.

Take a look at their excellent Summer Events programme to see if you can combine a visit to coincide with a concert, festival, walk or arts and craft displays.

For those interested in guided walks there is a list of Summer Excursions starting from Massa Lubrense on the back page. More information on the many walking trails in this area, including map sources, can be found in our Walks feature.

Sorrento News

Excelsior Revisited

07/06/2018 Richard Edwards

We first visited Sorrento in 2000 and stayed at the Excelsior Vittoria on several occasions, but it has been 6 years since our last visit. 10 years ago we also wrote a series of articles on a number of luxury hotels, including the Excelsior, and a 10th anniversary therefore seemed an appropriate reason to visit again and update the original feature. So we have booked a few nights during July when we will be visiting friends and business partners.

Here’s our update

‘A Modern Classic’ was one of a series of articles written by Richard Edwards in 2008/9 under the heading First Impressions. They take a personal look at landmark hotels on the Amalfi Coast and the original articles can be viewed below.
Remember internet technology was still developing 10 yrs ago

Features, People, Sorrento News

Marameo beach resort

31/05/2018 Richard Edwards

Sun glasses, swimming costume, lotion and some Euros are all you need for a day’s relaxation down where the Bay of Naples caresses Sorrento.

Marameo beach, restaurant and lounge bar provides a very comfortable and convenient location for those who enjoy the sounds and breeze from the sea. Visitors can take the public lift from the Villa Communale, located in the heart of Sorrento, down to the sea shore. A few steps along brings you to Marameo’s entrance, where fresh towels and smart changing rooms await.

It has all the facilities you require for topping up your tan and swimming. Order snacks and cocktails from your lounger or choose a fresh seafood dish at a table in the restaurant area.

Every sun lounger offers a choice of wonderful scenes. Grand majestic hotels perched on the cliffs above share the same view of the coastline stretching from Sorrento, Sant’Agnello, Meta di Sorrento and beyond. In the opposite direction Capri hides teasingly behind the heading of the peninsula.

Across the bay Vesuvius dominates the skyline with Naples cautiously creeping up its slopes. Time perhaps to plan a visit to the volcano’s crater or Pompeii, Herculaneum and even Naples itself, maybe tomorrow?

Marameo has a pleasant, stylish atmosphere during the day. Transforming at sunset into an intimate setting for a candlelit dinner. We recommend visitors take the lift, or walk down, to the port and view the location and its facilities. Members are eligible for a special rate.

Marameo Beach and Restaurant
Spiaggia San Francesco, Sorrento
www.marameobeach.com

Sorrento News

Shopping on Sorrento’s Corso Italia

14/05/2018 Richard Edwards

Corso Italia is Sorrento’s ‘High Street’ and most of the shops can be found along a 1km stretch from the station down to Via Capo. Add to these the shops huddled together in the lanes of the historical centre and all visitors should be satisfied. From the fun souvenir hunter to devotees of style and fashion.

Most shops are open from 9.30 am to 1 pm and 4 pm to 10 pm so there’s no need to rush. If you would like a flavour of what to expect then come with us for some window shopping.

Pets for life

Cool linen and a warm welcome

Outlets

Musica Da Ripostiglio

Virtuosi Di S.Martino in Rumors

A guide to Sorrento